Natural cosmetics are subject to specific manufacturing and packaging regulations. At this year's CosmeticBusiness conference, Prof Dr Jessica Freiherr from the Fraunhofer IVV will illustrate how to best meet these challenges. In the following interview, she offers some initial insights into the topic.

Prof Dr Freiherr, in your opinion, which areas in the development and manufacture of natural cosmetics require the most attention?

There is no universal answer to this question. Every company has its own needs and challenges. At the Fraunhofer IVV, we aim to support companies in optimising their processes. We look for tailored solutions to suit the specific demands in each case.

How do you ensure that the quality and effectiveness of cosmetic products are guaranteed without resorting to synthetic ingredients?

An important aspect of our work involves providing comprehensive support and advice for companies looking to develop natural cosmetic items, as well as conventional cosmetics and household cleaning products. We work closely with our industrial partners to understand their visions and develop customised product concepts. During this process, we focus on selecting natural ingredients that are not only effective, but also fulfil the necessary requirements for sustainability and eco-friendliness.

How do you approach the development and optimisation of plant-based active ingredients?

Our qualified scientists use innovative extraction methods and molecular modification technologies for this purpose. This is how we ensure the full potential of the active ingredients is unlocked in each product, while at the same time allowing claims such as "natural" and "near-natural".

And when it is time to upscale and start manufacturing the products, how do you help your clients optimise their production processes?

On the one hand, we offer consultancy services on how to clean production lines. This ensures the highest quality and hygiene standards and prevents any issues with traces of conventional product formulas in certified natural cosmetics. In addition, we support our clients in optimising their cleaning processes to help improve production efficiency and save resources. For example, only the minimum amounts of water and energy necessary for each level of contamination are used.

In your presentation, you will also be taking a look at developing claims for natural cosmetics. How should companies go about selecting the best claims?

Choosing the right claims is vital to the success of a product. We help our customers to find claims about their products' features and effectiveness that not only emphasise the benefits, but also comply with legal regulations and guidelines - as well as being scientifically proven.

It is not the first time you have held a talk at the CosmeticBusiness conference. What makes this trade show so special for you?

As a speaker, I love having the opportunity at CosmeticBusiness to network with experts in the cosmetics industry, seek out the latest trends and hold conversations where I can share my specialist knowledge in a dynamic environment. This year, attendees can find us in Hall 2 on stand C19 if they would like to find out more about our research. Everyone interested in our work is very welcome to come and visit us! Link to the Expert Lecture…