A trend emerging in the cosmetics industry involves leveraging evolving technologies to discover, source and harness more and more plant-based active ingredients. The manufacturers featured in the CosmeticBusiness 2023 specialist programme attested to this. We will provide four examples.

1. Potato Starch Makes for Transparent Formulations

Replacing acrylates and carbomers in hair and beard gel with a natural substance often involves compromising on appearance. Thorsten Görgen from SLI Chemicals illustrated that Agenajel Clear from the company's partner Agrana Stärke GmbH allows a high level of transparency to be achieved using naturally-derived ingredients. The active ingredient taps into the thickening power of potato starch. This substance can be processed in a variety of ways and stirred into both cold and warm water. Due to its low total plate count, it is solely heat-treated and not irradiated.

2. Microalgae Smooth the Skin

Nothing beats nature – that's the motto of Miguel Cabello from MC Actives. The company uses its patented Phycosphere Biodynamic Technology to grow microalgae in an artificial sea-like environment and derive potential active ingredients from it. A current example put forward was Osmocean. According to Cabello, it draws on the adaptability of algae, which have existed as a species for millions of years. When algae accumulate on rock, they develop osmolytes to allow them to continue to absorb vital moisture from their environment. The osmolytes in Osmocean do that, too. They help skin cells to hydrate. At the same time, the active ingredient stimulates the production of Procollagen I. The result is smoother, more elastic skin with an improved texture and fewer wrinkles.

3. Coriander Enhances Mood

Beauty comes from within. This is not just a matter of a healthy lifestyle, but also a positive mood. This forms the basis of the neuro-cosmetic active ingredient Sepibliss Feel from Seppic, which was presented by Anna Momméja. What's special about this active ingredient is its proven ability to deliver acupuncture-like benefits. This is because, like acupuncture, it reduces inflammatory nitric oxide. It also promotes the production of happiness hormones (oxytocin and endorphins) and protects nerve endings from stress-induced damage. The basis of Sepibliss Feel is coriander seed oil. In addition to its use as a herb, coriander is known for its healing properties. It contains the antioxidant petroselinic acid and linoleic acid, which can strengthen the skin barrier.

4. Scarlet Beebalm Preserves the Skin's Sun Capital

How long can our skin withstand solar rays before it is damaged by them? As Dr. Larissa Legewie from Sederma explained, the skin's "sun capital" is a measure of this. Half of it is used up by the time we reach the age of 20. As we age, the pigment-producing cells, or melanocytes, degenerate. This leads to pigmentation disorders, which manifest in the form of white or dark spots. The active ingredient Mel[o]stem is intended to counteract this. Among other things, it makes use of the antioxidative and anti-inflammatory properties of scarlet beebalm (Monarda didyma), which the company extracts using biosynthesis. Legewie reports that Mel[o]stem has succeeded in regulating the senescence markers of melanocytes, stimulating the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid and reducing the production of free radicals. The cocoon of the melanocytes remains intact, and their activity is modulated by Mel[o]stem. Both dark and white spots fade.

The lectures are available in the media library .